"I wanted movement and not a calm course of existence. I wanted excitement and danger and the chance to sacrifice myself for my love. I felt in myself a superabundance of energy which found no outlet in our quiet life." ~Leo Tolstoy
Thursday, May 5, 2011
Lensed Beauty: Sightings
http://tylerroemer.blogspot.com/2011/05/sightings.html
Check out a professional view of the newest Smith Rock highline "Windy Daze". Tyler Roemer's lensed perspectives are sure to stimulate the senses and leave you thinking.
Tuesday, May 3, 2011
"Windy Daze"
A newly established highline ("Windy Daze") on the backside of Smith Rock has been walked by Thomas Sloss and Brian Mosbaugh today. It was first sent by Brian Mosbaugh (FA full-man) with an Onsight in one direction and then by Thomas Sloss onsight one way. There has yet to be an official measure of the line but our educated guess was around 130 feet in length. We placed 4 mega 5/8 inch bolts (Type 18 Terry style) for each anchor and used stainless steel chain links in place of hangers. The beauty of this rig is that the bolts are easily disguised so as to not obstruct the view and are only accessible if you are willing to climb/solo up vertical terrain and crumbly rock. As a side note, atop one of the formations Jesse Brown found a very old yellow Kodak film canister under a rock that contained a note from the first recorded ascents of the tower back in 1961 and 1969. It's an interesting thought that this time capsule is now 50 years old, a great testament to the history of rock climbers and their continuing exploration of the vertical world. In the end, this line was a pretty tricky send that constantly battled the ripping wind with momentary lapses of calm. Despite the intimidating conditions we pulled out the first crossings and are very proud of the final product. Positioned over an alcove like feature, between two lichened covered rock towers, it parallels the beautiful Cascade mountains and Crooked River in addition to walking directly toward the iconic Monkey Face. A written description doesn't do justice to the postcard view so video will be posted at a later date... More bolts to be placed, more lines to be walked!
~B
Photo taken by/of Brian Mosbaugh
Monday, May 2, 2011
New Highlines at Smith Rock!
As of today Charlie Long, Joel Sprenger, and Jesse Brown bolted a new highline that spans the awl feature on the backside of Smith Rock (just right of Asteriks Pass as you are Monkey bound). They all got the first walks/FAs and Jesse was able to send his second highline!... It's positioned in an aesthetic location facing the river and seems fitting for a first Smith Rock highline since its not as overwhelmingly exposed as many other lines here. Weighing in at about 30 feet it's a very fun angled line... In addition, Thomas and I also bolted a new highline that spans a 130' gap on the backside as well (just down from the awl heading toward the Monkey). It parallels the Crooked River and Cascade Mountains while walking (in one direction) directly toward the epic and iconic Monkey Face. We're heading back to rig the line proper tomorrow and we're all very excited to put up a new FA (First Ascent/Across). I'll make sure to get some good footage of the line and publish some pictures as they're documented. Until then... keep it slack!
~B
~B
Thursday, April 28, 2011
Monday, April 25, 2011
Pebble Wrestling
Where at Smith Rock can you find almost fully horizontal roof climbing? The answer.... in very few places. However, just beyond the crowded frontside climbing and back past The Monkey lies this amazing bloc known as the Monkey Boulder. With long moves and intricate foot beta, this mega problem "Monkey in the Middle" takes the proudest cave line heading straight out the middle of the boulder. On quality rock with a tricky sequence, this problem is a must do. Consisting of several long crux moves that require precise body tension and tough skin, I'm psyched to have finally finished this project so my fingers can finally regenerate.
Filmed and Edited by: Brian Mosbaugh
Musical Artist: Wesley Avery "My Dark Orchestra"
http://www.myspace.com/wesleyaverymusic
Wednesday, March 9, 2011
Smith Rock Highlines...
UPDATE:
I'm currently in the process of filming and organizing video footage that will document all the highlines currently established, and those that will be newly rigged, at Smith Rock. Anyone who is interested in walking new lines and helping to rig, I cordially invite you to join. I need help in many logistical ways and I want to accurately and genuinely capture the Highline community/lifestyle. I will be filming and rigging as the weather permits from now until late Spring. Thanks to all those that will be a part of this project. Let's get our send on!
~Brian
Photo by Thomas Sloss
Tuesday, March 8, 2011
Grolsch Expedition Highline Tour 2009-2010
So psyched! The first part of a traveling series documenting the Grolsch Expedition highline tour from 2009-2010. I was invited to accompany this international group of talented highliners, climbers and adventurous folk from Poland and the US on an epic highline/climbing trip around the country for three months. I can say with absolute certainty that my life has never been the same since this trip. It was a turning point in my highline career and life experience, from which I have never been the same person since... I love all who were, and continue to be, a part of this journey!
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